Overview

 

Puppies exhibit a range of behaviors, some of which they'll naturally outgrow, while others need consistent training and guidance. While behaviors like excessive chewing, barking, jumping, and mouthing might diminish with time, reinforcement or unstable temperaments can prolong these habits. The key is to guide, redirect, and provide appropriate training to shape positive behavior.

 

Remember, your puppy learns from what you allow. Instead of scolding, guide your puppy toward desired behaviors. Ensuring a safe environment by puppy-proofing and using restraints when necessary prevents unwanted behaviors when redirection isn't feasible.

 

Soiling in the house

Please refer to the “Potty Training" page! Above all, do not punish or scold your pup for accidents as that will likely only make them worse.

 

Not coming when called (poor “recall”)

Your puppy's reluctance to come when called isn't misbehavior; it's about establishing the right motivation. Recall techniques will be covered during in-person lessons. In the meantime, engage in the name game outlined in the "Rewarding Mechanics" library page. Utilize a long line to ensure you can always bring your puppy back to you. It's important to note that your puppy's recall might be excellent in the early stages while it's feeling insecure, but this will likely change over time!

 

Possession aggression (aka “resource guarding”)

Resource guarding is a natural instinct in dogs, where they become defensive or aggressive to protect their possessions. It's crucial not to punish or scold your puppy for this behavior, as it can worsen the issue. Avoid taking away the resource abruptly, as it might escalate the problem.

 

At the same time, dealing with guarding behavior promptly is essential, and preventive measures should be implemented to minimize its occurrence. Left unaddressed, this behavior can escalate and become a severe issue, even leading to euthanasia in some older dogs. Early signs of guarding can be subtle, so it's beneficial to familiarize yourself with these cues through the “Prevent Possession Aggression” library page to address them proactively.

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Barking

Barking serves as a communication tool for dogs, often indicating alarm or concern. You can be most successful redirecting alarm barking if you activate your puppy’s seeking system, for example by tossing a treat or playing a game of tug.

 

Fear-induced barking can also be managed through "counter conditioning" your puppy to predict good things when they hear or see things that frighten them. Visit our “Distract and Redirect with Games” page for instructions. Visit the “Socialization” library page to learn how early socialization plays a key role in preventing fear barking, but note that certain guard breeds may exhibit this behavior persistently.

 

Barking can also be learned, so it's vital to preempt your puppy's needs to discourage this behavior from becoming a means of communication. Responding to every bark with immediate attention may reinforce the behavior. Anticipating and fulfilling their needs proactively is essential to curb this habit.

 

If your puppy's persistent barking continues despite addressing their needs, fatigue might be a contributing factor. Providing downtime in a crate isn't punishment but a way for them to rest. Similar to how a nap soothes a cranky child, napping helps puppies manage their energy levels and reduce restlessness when tired.

 

Leash pulling

Leash walking skills are covered in in-person lessons. Teaching good leash manners involves several mechanics best introduced when your puppy is slightly older and less distracted. Know that young puppies don't require lengthy walks yet; short sessions of around 5 minutes suffice, considering that training can be exhaustive for them.

 

Before diving into leash training, opt for a harness during walks. This allows your pup to pull without the discomfort of a regular collar, avoiding desensitization caused by months of pulling. For an early grasp of this concept, refer to this leash pressure video.

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Never allow your puppy to pull when attempting to reach someone or another puppy. Instead, redirect or manage the situation using the guidance provided in this video. We delve deeper into this approach on our "Distract and Redirect with Games" page and in our in-person sessions.

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Encouraging pulling reinforces the behavior, leading to frustration when they can't reach their target in the future. It's crucial to stop and turn away when they pull towards people or puppies. If you need to interact and can't prevent the pulling, refrain from rewarding your puppy with immediate attention from the people involved.

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Mouthing and Biting

Biting and mouthing are natural behaviors in a puppy’s developmental phase as they learn to manage their mouth and teeth appropriately. It's crucial not to mistake this behavior for aggression.

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Typically, at about nine weeks, puppies start learning bite inhibition from their mother or littermates. When a puppy bites too hard, cues from the mother or other pups often involve exclusion from play or social contact. This exclusion helps the rough-playing puppy learn to adjust its behavior to fit in socially. You can continue teaching this by using the "ouch" protocol:

 

• When your puppy bites, yelp "ouch."

• Remain still: Moving can heighten prey drive and increase biting.

• Turn away and ignore your puppy: Withdrawing attention discourages the behavior.

 

When your puppy mouths your leash or hands, it's often an indication that they're seeking something to play with. Quick movements might trigger their prey drive, leading to more biting or chasing. To prevent this, try to stay still and slow down your hand or leash movements.

 

If your puppy tends to mouth your hands when being petted, consider if they might be tired. Puppies need sufficient sleep, and when overly tired, they struggle to control impulses. Redirecting them with an appropriate chew toy can help shift their attention. Once engaged, you can resume petting or snuggling or guide them to rest in their crate.

 

For additional guidance and insights on handling puppy biting, you can explore these extra resources:

 

Extra resources:

Podcast on puppy biting: https://dogsthat.com/podcast/17/

One-pager by Dr. Nicholas Dodman: https://nilesanimalhospital.com/files/2012/05/Nipping-and-Mouthing-in-Dogs.pdf

 

Puppy crying

When your puppy is crying, it's crucial to understand why they're distressed and offer appropriate support. Here is a concise overview of what to do when your puppy is crying.

 

The general rule is to identify the cause behind the crying and provide assistance. Your puppy is communicating stress or discomfort, often due to factors like isolation, inadequate crate training, or a lack of conditioning to being alone. Sometimes, it's as simple as needing to relieve themselves, and you might have missed predicting that need.

 

Handling puppy crying requires compassion and strategic training. Ignoring or punishing the crying can escalate your pup's distress, so attentive responses and thoughtful training methods are essential. Understanding the root cause and addressing it with patience and empathy are key to easing your puppy's distress.

 

Jumping

Puppies naturally jump – after all, the reward is so much taller than they are! The initial step in handling this behavior is to prevent reinforcing it through containment, restraint, or training. We strongly advise against using aversives or punishments like squirt bottles, yelling, or e-collars at this stage, as these methods could harm your bond with your dog and might not be effective.

 

Our recommended methods are the primary approach and are effective with most dogs if you invest the time. However, if these methods don’t yield results, consider a private session or two with Laurie, the founder of Western Mass Dog Training, to learn about "boundary training" corrections.

 

During greetings with people, keep your puppy on a leash to prevent them from practicing jumping. Alternatively, keep them behind a baby gate, in their crate until they relax, or train them to exhibit alternative, calmer behaviors. In in-person sessions, we cover specific techniques to train your dog to opt for relaxation over excitement without relying solely on obedience classes.

 

As an immediate measure, start teaching your puppy an essential obedience skill that promotes relaxation: "place" or "relax on a mat." You'll find instructions for this in the "Relaxation" page. Work on this skill when you're not using restraint or containment methods. Additionally, watch this video to understand how unintentional cues might encourage your puppy to jump (also linked to on other library pages).

 

It's crucial to prevent successful jumps since each instance reinforces the behavior, encouraging your puppy to jump more. By focusing on prevention whenever possible, you help discourage the behavior from becoming an ingrained habit!

 

Counter surfing, eating off of floors, the ground, etc.

Let’s begin with a common misconception: some people think it’s convenient to allow their dogs to clean up anything dropped on the kitchen floor. We strongly advise against this practice because some dogs might ingest harmful items like pills or toxic foods. The key principle here is prevention: avoid providing access to things you don’t want your dog to take until you've trained them otherwise.

 

During the initial stages, focus on prevention strategies (containment, restraint, or removal of access). This allows you time to develop the necessary training to teach alternative behaviors. Avoid using punishment or aversives (such as squirt bottles, yelling, or e-collars) as these can damage your relationship with your dog, may not be effective, and could lead to unintended consequences like resource guarding.

 

Instead, start with positive training methods. Two obedience skills, "place" (or "relaxing on a mat") and "leave it," are excellent for teaching good kitchen manners. There are numerous online resources for teaching "leave it," and we cover our preferred method in in-person sessions.

 

For the prevention stage of counter-surfing training, we like the following protocols:

Article: https://www.clickertraining.com/how-to-put-an-end-to-counter-surfing.

Video/podcast (transcript available): https://dogsthat.com/podcast/33/

Article (relaxing on a mat): https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/training/mat-training-tips/

 

Hyperactivity

Puppies that are overly excited are usually not getting enough sleep. As we have emphasized elsewhere, puppies need a *lot* of sleep, 18-20 hours per day. Relaxation training is also essential, which we cover in the “Relaxation” library page and the in-person group meeting.​